All Entries in the "Deb's Corner" Category

Brilliant Women I Admire

Wow

After the number of years I’ve been in this business, I am still amazed by how much I learn from the brilliant women that are featured as speakers at our twice-yearly Mineral Makeup Crafting seminar.  This year, Kimberly Platko was the main speaker, besides myself, and Julie Edwards stepped in for a mini-workshop. In previous years, she’s conducted two-hour workshops that seemed short!

I have very deep respect for the vast knowledge and experience these women have to offer. Kimberly has the most amazing tricks for making hand-made products look professional. During one of her workshops, she showed us how to make a pressed shadow look like a million dollars, the first step being to roll the product into a little ball, using gloves of course, and then using a calibration weight, and tiny piece of cloth, to create a perfectly formed eye shadow. What a creative technique. And how wonderful that she’s willing to share these tricks with ‘newbies’ and the rest of us as well.

If anyone missed this seminar, we are going to stream it again in a few weeks, on West Coast time, so please check back for news on the site.

Deborah

Popularity: 2% [?]

Understanding the Information on Campaign for Safe Cosmetics

I’m writing a brief note to try to help mineral makeup users understand the data that they are seeing on the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics. It is very confusing, even for those of us who have been doing this for years. If you’re not familiar with the Campaign, it was designed to create healthy standards for cosmetics in the U.S., since our industry is underegulated. Unfortunately, the information and studies used to create the hazard ratings are oftentimes wholly unrelated to the usage of the ingredients, thereby making the data completely useless, and actually faulty.

Many of the studies quote animal testing, which I find painful to read at best. The Campaign states that it does not support animal testing, yet it quotes study after study in which very tiny animals (rats, mice, and rabbits) have ingredients injected or fed to them, that then make them sick. I believe that quoting these studies in and of itself, is an implicitly implied support of animal testing, in complete opposition of the Campaigns public statement against such testing.

Here are some specific errors that I find in the tabulation of evidence. I used zinc oxide as my example:

1. Inclusion of other minerals in the list: Several of the quoted studied referred to ‘zinc compounds’, instead of zinc oxide. Zinc compounds are not the same as zinc oxide and should not be included.

2. Tacking manufacturing practices onto the end user (end user being Monave in this case): This is especially evident as it relates to ecological concerns that are raised, ie, that if large quantities of zinc oxide are dumped into waterways, that contamination and degradation of wildlife occurs. This is the case with any ingredient dumped into waterways. For example, in Baltimore, there is runoff from yards, and farms into our Bay, and that runoff includes fertilizers. It doesn’t matter if they’re natual, or synthetic, the concentrations of fertilizers, combines with warm water in the summer, creates an overgrowth of algae, called an algae bloom. Then all of the fish go belly up, because there isn’t enough air for them to breathe. Is the fertilizer at fault? No, it’s a multitude of factors that cause this problem. So people fertilizing their lawn, and the manufacturers are not at fault, it’s lack of public legislation that would prevent and control these factors. So, back to zinc oxide, what would prevent contamination of aquatic life would be legislation prohibiting manufacturers of mineral compounds, and mining companies, from having access to waterways for waste removal.

3. Testing that uses routes of entry unrelated to normal consumption of end product: One of the studies quoted this as a concern

Developmental/reproductive toxicity
type of concern product conditions reference
One or more animal studies show developmental effects at high doses

It begs these questions:

How was a high dose administered? Was it injected into a rat? Was it fed to a mouse? Do we eat it, or inject it into our veins? It’s placed on our skin, and doesn’t absorb. That’s the beauty of minerals is that they don’t absorb, as do carbon-based ingredints. That’s the main reason why mineral makeup is easy on people with allergies, because it sits on the skin as opposed to entering into it.

So if a poor mouse in a lab who weighs a few ounces developed problems from high doses of zinc oxide injected or fed to it, how high of an amount would you have to consume to have those results, and if you apply a mineral makeup with zinc oxide in it to your face, does that have anything realistically connected to such data?

4. Quoting industrial inhalation risks as a concern for end users: This relates back to point number 2, in that industrial inhalation can cause cancer. As far as I know, any large inhalation of dust particles will cause lung disease. There is a litany of them. Again, this points back specifically to the regulation of the chemicals production industry itself. There are strict regulations concerning allowable levels of particulates (dust) in a workplace. Proper ventilation is required, as are personal items, such as masks. If a company is not following these procedures, there are consequences that can be enforced by the regulating agencies, whose job it is to check on manfucturers.

So, the documentation in the Skin Deep database implies that if Monave Mineral Makeup contains zinc oxide, then our products are connected to cancer. No so. You cannot get cancer from putting your makeup on each day, and my lab has an industrial ventilator that control our particulate levels to maintain a healthy work environment.

That data needs to be tacked onto the manufacturers of said minerals.

If you’re still reading this, you are a dedicated learner. Please feel free to comment. In summary, while the goal of the Safe Campaign and Skin Deep are laudable, the data base itself is faulty, and many of the small companies that were with the campaign from its inception have signed off, and will no longer support the efforts. I for one, hope that someone knowledgeable in this industry, will begin to sift through the data, and either explain it to the cusomters browsing the site, or remove erroneous, or unrelated studies.

Deb

Popularity: 37% [?]

Why Monave Mineral Makeup is made without Bismuth Oxychloride

There is a lot of controversy surrounding the ingredient, ” bismuth oxychloride “. It’s in many brands of mineral makeup, including Bare Escentuals, Youngblood, and Jane Iredale.  At Monave, we have opted not to use it in our formulas, the primary reason being that it is commonly known to be an irritant, especially for women with sensitive skin.

I am not going to engage in a scientific conversation here, but rather, base my information on the unending reports from women using mineral makeup containing bismuth oxychloride, of itching, redness, bumps, and irritation. They state that the condition is more pronounced when the weather becomes hot. For anyone wanting to delve into the scientific arguments surrounding bismuth oxychloride, simple google a question,  such as, ‘is bismuth oxychloride irritating to the skin?”. I guarantee that any line that uses bismuth oxychloride, and any supplier that sells it, will defend its use, stating that it’s approved by the FDA, and not a known irritant.

I read one blog that had a comment written by a supplier stating that it is indeed, cheap animal hair brushes that cause the irritation, not bismuth oxychloride. That would imply that all mineral makeup users use cheap animal hair brushes, which clearly is not the case, especially with high quality synthetic brushes now available.  From the Green Beauty Guide comes this statement as to the allergenic nature of bismuth oxychloride:

 ” While bismuth oxychloride has proven antibacterial properties, it can irritate sensitive skin like mad.  “Bismuth oxychloride can aggravate acne, resulting in flare-ups upon use, and even cause the appearance of acne cysts,” says Manhattan-based dermatologist Judith Hellman, MD. “In addition, it may be the source of rashes in patients sensitive to it, especially those with delicate and easily irritated skin, such as rosacea and eczema patients.” No wonder many mineral makeup manufacturers are now eliminating bismuth oxychloride from their formulations “.

So, to put it simply, our customer base at Monave tends to be women with sensitive and problem skin. I’m one of them. We, as a consumer group, like to see simple ingredient list. For myself, I wash my face with warm water, and use moisturizing creams with as little as 5-6 ingredients. It’s the same approach that I have with my food. I look for birthday cake that has flour, sugar, eggs, milk, baking powder and natural flavor. I remember going to Safeway once to get a birthday cake for my son’s party. I asked them for the ingredient list, since it wasn’t on the box, and what they brought to me had about forty ingredients on it. I went back to Whole Foods, and spent more per inch on the cake, and felt totally comfortable with my choice.

So, I naturally extend this philosophy to my makeup and skincare, as do many Monave customers. There are a few other ingredients that we could include in our mineral makeup, but choose not to, not because they’re going to kill us slowly, or because they are horrible ingredients, simply because they cause irritation, and are unnecessary!

mineral foundation without bixmuth oxychloride

The other really obvious issue that is brought up by many customers who have worn mineral foundation with bismuth oxychloride in it, is that it’s shiny! Now, in my estimation, after having applied mineral make up on thousands of women over the years, there are very few who want ” shine ” on their face! A little dewy glow maybe, but the phrases that I’ve seen used by women who use foundation with bismuth oxychloride in it run along the lines of, ” It makes my face glow like a light bulb “.  So,  in terms of foundation alone, bismuth oxychloride does not appear to be a good choice for inclusion in a formula, with or without  the other concerns mentioned above.

So, why is it used then? Bismuth oxychloride has a smooth, silky, creamy texture. Using raw minerals, such as iron oxides and titanium dioxide to create skin tone colors for mineral foundation is a challenge when it comes to providing a good texture. They are very thick and not at all easy to spread. (Think cold butter on soft white bread). So to temper this unweildy texture, a formulator looks for a silky mineral that will add silkiness. Bismuth oxychloride provides silkiness and also adds creaminess, so the powder doesn’t feel as dry to the touch. It also breaks up clumpy pigments so that the finished mineral powders will have an even consistency.  There are other silky, soft minerals that can achieve the same effects as bismuth oxychloride without the irritation. It just comes down to the formulator’s choice in terms of what their customers needs are.

In conclusion, if someone doesn’t find bismuth oxychloride irritating, then she has many options to choose from in mineral makeup brands. But for women who want the simplest ingredient list possible, and who are faced with sensitive, blemish-prone skin, mineral makeup brands without bismuth oxychloride are a better choice. That’s who we cater to. That’s who we are at Monave!

Popularity: 99% [?]

Is my gluten-free diet making me gain weight?

I’m a celiac. It runs in my familiy. My mom was diagnosed very late after a difficult several years with severe weight loss, rashes, and ultimateldy, some neurological disorders. I was one of the lucky ones. It was first loosely diagnosed as a wheat allergy, so many of my symptoms were resolved before they could have worsened. I went from being extremely ill to being vibrantly healthy in a matter of weeks.

So now, I stick to  a gluten-free diet. I’ve noticed lately though, that I’m experiencing some weight gain, and I’m wondering if my convenience food from Whole Foods is the culprit. They now have a wonderful selection of gluten-free box food, but since I started buying them to eat for lunch, I’ve gained almost five pounds. It’s been about two months. I was already tending toward high-fat, fast burning foods such as Mexican (I’m vegetarian, but not vegan, so the cheese may be part of the problem), and Asian (white rice!).

Being vegetarian, AND gluten-free can be  a real challenge when it comes to just getting enough food in my body to keep me going throughout the day. I may have to stop eating the delicious gluten-free frozen meals for a while (Gluten-free, vegetarian lasagna is such a treat!!!!), and focus on getting some whole grains and more veggies back into my diet.

It’s almost beach season, so I don’t have too much time…I think I’ll walk to work today!

Peace,

Deb

Popularity: 36% [?]

Business Tips for Single Mom Business Owners

I have never been a single mom per se, but because my husband was ill frequently when our children were babies, I know what it’s like to have to be a mom managing home and business simultaneously. It was very challenging, and at times maddening, but I am thankful for the experience. I am also thankful for my family members and the other moms who rallied around me to help during that difficult time. One of those women was Debbie Bilezikian, pictured here typing madly away in her office.

Debbie, a longtime member of the Indie Beauty Network, and a speaker at my 2006 women’s business conference, encouraged me along the way. Because she is a fairly new single mom of two sons, ages 7 and 11, and because she is such a fantastic role model and business leader at Monave Mineral Cosmetics in Baltimore, Maryland, I asked her to share some of her secrets for for thriving as a single mom who is also leading a small business. Here’s what she told me.

1. Work Business Around Childrens’ Schedules. Because there’s no full-time partner I can rely on now, I understand the importance of being available to my children during specific times that are important in their lives. If you have a retail store, for example, the optimal times to be at your store will be after 3:00pm on weekdays, and on Saturdays and Sundays. I closed my retail locations because they didn’t allow me to spend those times with my sons.
2. Choose A Business That Gives You Optimal Flexibility. You can provide for your children and have the flexibility to be able to pick them up from school, stay home on a sick day, and fit work around their bedtimes, so long as you choose a business and a business model that allows you to do that. If your new business would infringe on your ability to be flexible, pick another business. If you already have a business, you may have to make some changes as I did in closing my retail locations.
3. Let Dad Step Up To The Plate. As moms, we often like to be in control, especially if we are the custodial parent. It’s easier to keep our schedule than to delegate to dad if for no other reason than doing so allows us to keep our routine — and routine is very important to children. Sometimes, it’s tempting to fall into the trap that we are the “better” parent, and that our kids will suffer if they spend too much time with the other parent. At the end of the day, loosening those reins helps everyone, especially the kids’ dad. Of course every parenting situation is different and there may be legitimate reasons to minimize the time the other parent spends with the kids. But barring those exceptions, it’s always best to delegate parenting to the other responsible parent when you can. This will give you time to indulge your passions, including your business.
4. Learn To Say “No.” Your time is precious. If something is not essential, don’t do it. Don’t sweat the small stuff. If you served carrots for vegetables two dinners in a row, don’t feel guilty that your kids aren’t getting ample supply of their greens because they’ll be fine. So what if their shirts are wrinkled one day, because you spent the evening getting a big order out, or taking care of a client?! Nobody is standing around commenting about what a bad mother you are, and even if they are, it’s their problem, not yours.
5. Encourage Yourself Every Day. Say something out loud that is positive about yourself every day. Say, “ I’m a great Mom because……”. Say, “ Even if I can’t take my kids to Disney World this year, we’re going to work toward a long weekend at the beach”. Say, “Although I never have enough money to buy my kids presents in between holidays, my ‘nos’ are a really important way for them to learn about managing money and the art of delayed gratification.” Stop beating yourself up! You’re amazing, and they love you.
6. Don’t Diss Daddy. Give up the disparaging remarks directed toward the kids’ dad. And while you’re at it, stop hating yourself for a failed relationship. Instead, focus on what’s good about all of your lives — your health, a roof over your heads, shoes to wear, good food to eat and a business that pays the bills and allows you to be available to your kids. Focus on what’s working, not on what’s not. Use your energy to work on things you can control, such as creating an atmosphere for fun interaction with your kids and the world in general. Always focus on the positive, and that will increase the positive in your life. It’s a magic formula for success and happiness.
7. Allow Your Business To Satisfy You. While a business can’t take the place of another human being, sometimes, it’s best not to have other human beings for a while. It’s during these times that we can really grow our businesses and give them undivided attention. Being a business woman actually makes the transition from married to single easier. My business is my best friend at the end of the day, and fills gaps in time that might otherwise be lonely. Watching something grow and develop is a joy and the hard work, both intellectual and otherwise, keeps me young!
8. Spend Time With Friends. The most important thing that I do to keep my sanity is go out with my best girlfriend at the end of a long day in a cute pair of boots, a newly put on “face” (my own Monave make up of course!), and enjoy a glass of wine and some good music. Baltimore has a lot of live music, and I live right in the heart of it. I’m also a musician myself, and I can’t think of anything that relieves stress better than good music. I get lost in that world of sound and beauty, and remember why I’m here.

Question: Do you know a single mom business owner who would be encouraged by this post? If so, please forward it to her with my and Debbie’s best wishes for success. If you have some tips to offer, please share them with us.

* This article first appeared in the Bootstrap Babes blog on February 27, 2008. It has been updated slightly for context for this post

Popularity: 30% [?]